Showing posts with label latex care. Show all posts
Showing posts with label latex care. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Drying & Talcing Latex Garments

Taking proper care of your latex garments is one of those things many rubber enthusiasts talk about but, I suspect, very few actually practice in real life. I always come across the excuse that it takes too much time, and yada yada [insert your own B.S. excuse here]. So, you're basically telling me you spent $200+ on one garment alone, and after spending five hours at a party working up a sweat on the dance floor, you're gonna go home, peel it off, then crumple it up in a ball and toss it in your closet? Go right ahead. Waste your money. Don't come crying to me because all your latex smells like ass and looks like a truck ran over it.

I prepared a little photo demo showing you an easy, painless way to dry and talc your latex that takes only about five to ten minutes per garment including washing once you get the hang of it. Keep in mind that if you have to wash something with a lot of surface area, like a gown, it's going to take longer. It's a good, fast system that you can tailor to your own specific needs. [The only reason I didn't include a washing demo with photos is because I didn't have anyone to hold the camera while I was rinsing the garment, and I really didn't want to risk dropping the camera in the sink. Go here instead.]

Here's the star of our drying and talcing demo. She's an olive green halter top with hot pink trim by Betty LaBamba (of course!).


In the next photo, we see an wet garment turned inside out. [I'll do a washing demo sometime in the future if requested.] Basically, I just rinsed it in warm water without soap and used a soft sponge on the outside to remove the excess silicon polish. I'll break down this ridiculously easy process into steps for you.

Step #1: Turn the garment inside out, and place it on a clean, soft, dry towel. I usually start with the front of the garment. This will help save drying time since it will soak up much of the moisture on the back while you're drying the front. Have a few extra towels handy if you have a big job to do. Ever try to dry yourself off with a wet towel? [Look at the craftsmanship on the halter. Don't I do good work?]


Step #2: Get another soft, clean, dry towel, and start drying the garment. Concentrate on drying the seams first. However, if your garment has any grommet closures (aka lace-up or corset style) or zips, dry that area first, then go onto the seams. You don't have to scrub or press hard. Straight, gentle motions are fine. Don't worry too much about getting it exactly bone dry on the first go.

Step #3: Turn the inside out garment right side out. If it has been repeatedly shined, you will notice that the shiny outside of the garment dries faster than the rougher inside. Once again, concentrate on the seams then dry the rest. This time, be a little gentler with the towel so you don't accidentally scratch the surface.

Step #4: Next, make sure you got the garment as dry as possible (both inside and out) with the towel. You will know it's dry because it will feel dry to the touch and the latex material will have turned a lighter color. See this post again.

Step #5: Now it's time to talc it up like no tomorrow. Maybe I shouldn't have phrased it that way. You don't have to use a massive amount of talc--just enough to get the job done. I use a make-up brush to apply the talc. Note: don't use your wife's make-up brush. Use a new one without any make-up particles on it. You can buy one for cheap in any drug store.

With the make-up brush, you can get an even application. Once again, I like to start inside out, then turn it right side out. You don't have to talc the outside of the garment if you believe it's unnecessary, but I usually put on a light coating.

Here you can see the final results of our drying and talcing demo. It's all nice, clean, and ready for storage or another night out on the town.


Legal Disclaimer: Neither I nor Betty LaBamba are responsible if you somehow fuck up your garment in any way. It's all you. Don't blame me for shit. I spent hours putting this entry together for your benefit.

Sunday, April 22, 2007

Say It Loud! Say It Proud! or More on Washing

NEVER HANG LATEX OVER YOUR SHOWER CURTAIN ROD!
NEVER HANG LATEX OVER YOUR SHOWER CURTAIN ROD!
NEVER HANG LATEX OVER YOUR SHOWER CURTAIN ROD!


Why? And yes, the all caps mean I'm yelling at you.

The rod is metal. Metal is bad for latex and will stain it. Therefore, hanging a [wet!] latex garment over a shower curtain rod to dry is bad and will stain it.*

Naughty, naughty. Don't do it. Or do it 'cause you're lazy and don't want to take five minutes out of your totally awesome busy life to wipe off your expensive clothing. How much did your outfit cost? $300? $400? And it's white? OK, fine.

*Knife fight to the death: rubber syllogisms vs rubber haiku. Who will win? Available on pay-per-view channel 99 for $49.99 saturday night. Don't miss it or you'll suck 4-ever.

Friday, April 13, 2007

Washing Latex Garments Part I

This post is for those of you new to washing latex garments. The first time I washed any latex, I though to myself, "Oh my gawd, am I doing this right? What the hell is going on? Why is it changing color? Is this normal?" I've never heard anyone talk about this, so I took a picture to show you what happens to the fabric itself when it's submerged under water. In fact, latex, especially darker colors, will change color and become grey-ish and cloudy during washing. The "wrong" side, or rougher side, will appear darker (much like woven fabric clothing). Once it's completely dry, it will go back to normal. Wiping off the garment with a soft towel will not remove all the moisture in the fabric. It will need a few minutes of air drying to get completely dry.

If you don't know the first thing about proper washing or need a refresher course, here are some basics before we go on the the pictures.

The basics of washing latex garments:


  • Use warm water that's not too hot or too cold.
  • Don't use a harsh sponge to wash your garment. It will destroy the soft shiny finish of the latex. If you need some kind of a sponge, make sure it's soft.
  • If plain water is not enough and soap is needed, use a mild dish detergent without citrus. Don't use harsh detergents or chemicals. Rinse off all the soap.
  • Hand wash only. I personally don't recommend putting latex in the washing machine. Sure, it may work for some people, but not every washing machine is created equal. I don't even like washing my "regular fabric" clothing in the machine because they tend to get fucked up. While we're on the subject, don't put expensive delicate bras and panties in the washing machine either.
  • When drying off your garment, use a soft lint-free towel. Don't use a paper towel; you'll scratch the finish and get a bunch of lint crap on it.
  • A good drying system is to start on the inside of the garment first, concentrating on seams, zippers, grommets, and any metal stuff. Wet metal is dangerous to latex!
  • I recommend talc-ing at least the inside of the garment after it's dry. Talc the outside if you're storing it. You don't have to have yourself an 80's coke party with the talcum powder, enough to keep the garment from sticking together is fine.
Semi-Trans Smoke swatch:



Semi-Trans Smoke* garment, just washed, still wet:


In the picture directly above, you can see how the latex changed colors under the water. It appears cloudy and spotty and even "warped" in some places. Don't worry, plain water is not going to "hurt" the latex. For example, once when I was really forgetfull and left a garment in a wet sink overnight, I found it horribly bubbly, warped, and discolored. I thought I screwed up a perfectly good garment, but after I wiped it off and let it air dry, it turned back to its original glory. However, don't take this as an OK to leave your dirty latex laundry in the sink, especially if it has metal bits like zippers, rings, or snap closures. Latex is a fickle and delicate mistress that must be handled with care.
*The trim color is Olive Green.

Thursday, October 19, 2006

Rubber Rx Care Paranoia

I can't think (or pay attention enough) to write a coherant enough blog essay. So...

I compiled a list of links to various latex designers "latex care tips" pages. Many sites were omitted because they didn't bother to put up a latex care page, I couldn't find it within 30 seconds, or they're under construction/renovation, OR whoever wrote their care tips was on serious crack. In conclusion: it's ok to be paranoid about latex care (try not to be a matyr with your fingernails, tho'); we all say basically the same thing in different words more or less; I hate flash websites.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for the content listed in these sites.

Cocoon (UK)
Rubber 55 (UK)
Libidex (UK)
Simon O (Austria)
Pressure Corsets
Bodycult (Germany)
Art With Latex (USA)
The Baroness (NYC)
Slyx (VA, USA)
Vex (USA)
Lust Designs (CA, USA) Care tips is towards bottom of page.
Nimues (CA, USA)
So Hip It Hurts (CA, USA) A really fun read.

Sunday, August 27, 2006

Oh, Shiny...

It's best to lure the opponent in with some sort of shiny object.
--from a hilarious semi-famous anti-Spice Girl page.

[This post is NOT about lubing up the inside of your latex outfits to get into them. It's about shining the outside. Personally, I just use talc when needed. Go to the IAR forums for more info. If you don't already know, everything about everything latex/rubber/PVC/plastic is right there at your fingertips. It's free. However, if you find the site useful or have been a member for quite some time, please consider leaving a donation. Or one day it will not be there when you try to log on...]

Question: What should I use to make my latex shiny?

There are a few different ways to go about this, but before we go on, I'm afraid I'm going to have to upset you: You're never ever going to get your latex to stay perfectly, spotlessly, consistently shiny all the time. Pretty pictures are just that, pretty pictures. Shine is often sticky, moves around, rubs off on everything else. If you are a shine perfectionist, you have to keep doing touch-ups throughout the night. You shine my back, I shine your back, geddit?

I highly suggest not using products to condition/shine your beloved latex that are not manufactured and marketed towards our special purpose. Gee, you spent $400 on that catsuit, so you're gonna try to pinch a few pennies buy getting that Armor All crap? Whatever. Gonna drive your catsuit to work, too? Hmmm. That would be pretty awesome...

Before you begin to shine up your gear, make sure the outside is clear of all talc and dust. Clean surfaces are truely beautiful things. A quick once over with clean wet sponge does the trick. It's easier if you are already dressed and done with all the talc business.

There are several types of shine products on the market: aerosol spray, sex lube, "blue milk"/liquid, spray bottle (non-aerosol). They contain silicon or dimethicone (a type of silicon).

Aerosol Sprays:
Mainly used for photoshoots and the like. It really makes the latex look like polished glass. It's also very sticky and needs constant application. [Read: pain in the ass.] Clean up is more of a bitch, too. Some latex designers like Blackstyle and Demask have their own brand. (I spent $15 on the Blackstyle stuff. I also spent $20 in Customs fee, but that's another story.) Google "food grade silicon spray" and you can get the same crap for seven bucks, if not less. I only use this for photoshoots and fashion shows--basically scenarios where a fast and even application of extreme shininess is required. Do I have to remind you that aerosol sprays are a health and safety hazard? I didn't think so. Don't be a dumbass and store it next to that raging campfire.

Sex Lubes:
Lubrication such as Pjur Cult, Pjur Eros, ID Millenium are popular conditions (and dressing for *ahem* pleasure aids), Pjur Eros especially. The Pjur Cult has a, well, cult following and is supposedly hard to find in the US. I use the Eros stuff on occasion, but it's really really sticky and rubs off on EVERYTHING. Warning: this stuff is tres expensive! and very slippery! Be careful if you spill some on the floor or much busting of ass will occur.

"Blue Milk"/ Liquids:
The [in]famous blue milk. Guess what color it is? Yup. Demask calls it "Perv-o-shine" and Cocoon calls it Cocoon latex, PVC, and leather polish. I believe the manufacturer is Micro Chemical Products [sorry guys, no URL] from the UK. If it's your thing, you could probably buy tubs of the shit from them. The stuff smells really good, but you need quite a bit of coats to get a decent [read: totally bitchin' glassy] sheen. Warning: It may or may not yellow pearlsheen/metallic latex over extended use. I haven't done any long term official scientific tests with that or Armor All, but I really should...

Spray Bottle (pump, not aerosol):
Not an aerosol. It has the consistency of the "blue milk" stuff but usually white and often comes in a pump bottle. Demask's Rubber Rejuvenator, Deviant's Slick, and Black Beauty are just a few that come to mind. I never tried Black Beauty, so I have no kind of informed opinion on the matter. Personally, I use Rubber Rejuvenator and Deviant Slick the most. (I'm leaning towards the Deviant these days: you get twice as much as the R.R. for less than half the price. Plus, the feel is less "sticky" but just as shiny.) I'll spray it on the garment, then use a clean wet sponge for even application. For small items, I just spray it on the wet sponge instead and go. The Rubber Rejuvenator is especially great for old latex. It masks some light oxidization and gives an awesome shine. A little goes a long way with this stuff. Both brands last pretty fucking long compared to the other types of polishes. The night before a photoshoot or fashion show, I thoroughly powder the insides of the garments then use this type of shine to polish the outsides. It saves everyone a lot of time. For the inevitable "how'd those hand prints get on my ass?" touch-ups, I use the same stuff or the aerosol spray depending on time constraits.

303 Aerospace Protectant:
According to their website, 303 "is the most effective UV screening and anti-ozonant protection for latex rubber". I don't know if I would use it on an everyday basis but it works freekin' miracles on dying oxidizing latex. This place sells a 16 oz. spray bottle for $15. Make sure you read the MSDS [link is to an adobe acrobat file] before using it.

What to avoid like the plague:
Stuff with oils, baby oil, any type of petroleum products, petroleum jelly (brand name vaseline), fire, metals, sharp objects. Latex is "luxury item" expensive, so exercise care and common sense. Please.

Clean Up: The Aftermath
Please keep in mind that it's very difficult to completely remove the layer of shine with just one washing even with the recommended mild dish soap. As long as your gear is clean and well talced for storage, there shouldn't be a problem. If you just leave all that shine stuff on for a long time, there's a good chance the latex may horribly stick to itself. You may risk tearing it when the time comes to "unstick" it, especially if the items in question are rather old. Deviant claims its Slick product is safe for storage, but I dust the outside with talc anyway.

Happy Shining!

I am in no way affiliated with the companies, products, brand names, etc. listed herein. This blog post is, by no means the last word on latex conditioning. It's up to you to care for your own clothing. I am also not responsible if something goes horribly wrong.